Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia)
(Fall 2019)



  • Why Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia)?
    Tbilisi is the capital of the former Soviet Republic of Georgia. In case you missed this: Georgia is 3,000 year old and home of Christianity for 2,000 years. It is the birthplace of wine, some 8,000 years ago, and Stalin. In case you miss the hospitality you remember in, say, the Mediterranean, fifty years ago -- you will find it here. Plus hi-tech (4-5 G network coverage, free Wi-Fi almost everywhere). Parts of Tbilisi remind me of Paris, others of Istanbul. The city is located along a river, in-between respectable hills, which offer a beautiful view from different directions. Modern architecture blends well with the old. Food is superb and plentiful. Accommodation, transportation at western standard and still low cost. No problem with safety: It is believed to be the safest country on the World. People love their country and stand for it. People respect each other's culture and religion. They live the "guest in the house is God in the house" motto quite literally. In Tbilisi, you will find the synagogue, the mosque, and orthodox churches next to each other. (Yes, there are also Catholic churches in Tbilisi.) No tensions. People are honest (with the exception of some cab drivers: negotiate the price first!).

  • How to get and move there.
    There are direct flights to the capital Tbilisi (TBS) from many European cities including Paris CDG and Munich. No visa requirement for tourists from most countries. The equivalent of Uber in Georgia is Bolt (formerly Taxify). Download on your smartphone now and use it starting from your arrival. (Taxis often overcharge foreigners.)

  • Communication.
    Take your smartphone along and make sure it is "unlocked". Immediately upon exiting the Tbilisi arrivals door, look around you. Within 20-50 meters you will find vendors of the Free Tourist SIM card (prepaid). The biggest provider is Magti. The 15-day prepaid card for US$10 gets you a free 4.5 G SIM card, your Georgian local phone number, 3,000 MB data, 30 minutes of international calls, free local calls, free SMS/MMS. You need your passport and the cash you get at the airport ATM. They switch the new SIM card for your home SIM card and you pay no roaming charges. (When returning -- just switch back.) Your life will be sweet and easy with and Google Maps.

  • Living expenses.
    Restaurant prices are below McDonald's and hotel prices well below those in Western Europe and the U.S. A taxi ride in a Toyota Prius (take !) is typically below US$1.50 in town. West European supermarket chains (e.g. Spar) are well represented and open until late.


  • Language.
    The 3.5 million Georgians speak and write Georgian. You will love the beauty of the 33-character alphabet that you can not read. (The language is phonetic: if you do learn the characters, you can read, but still will not understand.) Do not worry -- everything is bilingual everywhere, from signs to menus. Most Georgians speak Russian, which was a compulsory language to learn in the former Soviet Union. Some of the young generation speak English. If not -- they will try their best. None of this will bother you if you travel by and book/pay your hotel on-line.

  • Places to visit.
    Tbilisi

    • Walk the old town. You can start at Freedom Square, below the Narikala Fortress. Watch the culture of three religions living peacefully together. Visit the churches/the mosque/the synagogue. See the Leaning clock tower (with an hourly show of life and the angel ringing the bell). See the street art show nearby that may remind you of Montmartre in Paris.

    • Take the Aerial Tramway
      ( destination: Europe Square)
      across the river to the Narikala Fortress.

    • Visit the Mother of Georgia statue near the top station. She holds a wine bowl in one and a sword in the other hand.

    • Walk down from the top station through the Botanical Garden and see a natural waterfall in a capital city.

    • Take a sulfur hot bath in Abanotubani,
      ( destination: Abano Street)
      near one of the entrances of the Botanical Garden. Bath #5 is the oldest and offers a public bath for US$2 with sauna/hot water basins/showers (men and women are separate). You will be naked while your clothes/valuables will be in a (guarded) locker. Have a scrub-down massage for US$6 to feel as clean as a newborn.

    • Visit the Sameba,
      ( destination: Sameba)
      the Holy Trinity Church.


    • Take the Tbilisi funicular
      ( destination: Vilnius Square)
      to the top of the holy Mt. Mtatsminda.
      Stop at the middle station and take the long walk down the stairs to the Tbilisi necropolis of famous personalities, from poets to Stalin's mother. Then continue to the top station, walk around and have gorgeous Georgian food at one of the restaurants. You will not see much more from the giant Ferris wheel ("Devil's wheel" in Georgian) at the mountaintop.

    • Visit the Dry Bridge market
      ( destination: Dry Bridge market)
      with memorabilia of the century past and Communist relics.

    • Visit the Dezerter Bazaar
      ( destination: Abastumani Street)
      that combines the Istanbul bazaar with a huge fresh food market.

    • Visit and have a drink at Fabrika, a trendy place for the young generation.

    • Visit the Flea market at Deda Ena park (every other Sunday, just on the other side of the Dry Bridge market.)

    • Visit the Museum of Soviet Occupation
      ( destination: 3 Rustaveli Avenue)

    • Visit Stalin's underground print house
      ( destination: 7 Kaspi Street)

    • Take a trip (use for under US$5) to the Chronicles of Georgia, a colossal monument celebrating 3,000 years of Georgia and 2,000 years of Christianity. Built still under the Communist regime.

    • Nearby, visit Stalin's Penis, the concrete pillar on which the face of Stalin was supposed to be raised daily above Tbilisi. You have to hike up.
      ( destination: Nikoloz Khudadovi Street, near 68 Uiaragho Street; good view of the Caucasus Mountains.)

    Outside Tbilisi

    • Visit Mtskheta, the ancient capital, about 20 km from the city. There, visit the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (11th century). price should be very affordable.

    • From Mtskheta, take a short ride up the mountain to the Jvari Monastery with a great view.
    • Further away, for a day trip, visit the Kazbegi mountain behind the Gergeti Trinity Church and the Ananuri fortress.
    • Another day trip gets you to Kakheti, Georgia's famous wine production region.

    Check the web for other info.

  • General advice.
    Dress and feel casual. Weather appears to be moderate throughout the year. Except for the alphabet and language, you will feel in Tbilisi like in a West European capital. Wear comfortable shoes or sneakers, since you will walk a lot. If you forget something, anything, you can buy it (cheaper) here. Pay with a credit card or take cash at plentiful ATMs in Tbilisi (things will be different in the countryside). Don't be surprised if, in an ancient village outside Tbilisi, a local invites you into his house to get a better view from his balcony. Or someone invites you to join their wine/cheese/bread party in the street. And yes, I have seen the cab driver telling my host to forget about the extra money, since the conversation was so great. Life goes at a slower pace than in New York and people enjoy it.

  • Useful basic expressions in Georgian.
    Hello = gamardzhoba
    Thank you = madloba
    Sorry ... = bodishi ...

  • Other useful expressions in Georgian.
    Cheers (to one) = gagimardzhos
    Cheers (to many) = gagvimardzhos
    Good = karghee
    Beer = loodee
    Local liquor (grappa) = chacha
    Hard to believe = daudzherebeleea

  • More on Georgian language

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Last update:  
2021.08.02 (Monday) 11:14:04 EDT.